What Problems Do Fleas Cause?
If you have ever watched a dog attempt to scratch away fleas, you'll know that control of these insect pests is essential. Aside from the discomfort and itching that flea bites cause, fleas can also cause other health problems. Some pets are allergic to the saliva of the flea and continue to scratch long after the fleas are gone. Damage from scratching continues the irritation and may develop into "hot spots" which are areas of skin infection. Fleas suck blood and anemia can occur in extreme cases. They also transmit bacterial and viral diseases, and pass on a type of tapeworm.
Where Do Fleas Come From?
Fleas live almost anywhere. During warm months, they can rapidly multiply in your yard. As your pet walks through the grass, fleas will hop aboard. The outside flea population generally is greatly reduced during our months of cold weather but fleas can easily live year round in your home.
What is the Life History of the Flea?
The life of a flea is best described as a cycle which begins with the female laying eggs. These eventually produce more adult fleas that once again lay eggs. Control of fleas is based on this life cycle.
1.
Adult fleas jump aboard the pet and take a blood meal.
2.
The adult female flea lays hundreds of eggs in her lifetime. Eggs fall to the ground wherever the pet spends his time. They are very resistant to drying, temperature extremes, and most chemicals. Eggs will hatch in 1-12 days depending on temperature, moisture, and other variables.
3.
Flea eggs hatch into the larval stage. The larvae feed on available organic material and go through three molts. They prefer dark, quiet areas such as cracks along baseboards and in crevices in furniture. The larval stage can vary from 9 to 200 days.
4.
The third stage larva spins a cocoon and becomes a pupa. Pupae are very resistant to methods of control. The pupa stage lasts 7 days-1 year.
5.
The cocoon finally opens and an adult flea emerges. Hungry, it immediately looks for a meal in a warm-blooded animal.
How Do I Get Rid of Fleas?
Prompt, thorough treatment of fleas on your pet and in your home is the best method of control. Spending the time and money in doing a good job initially will save time, money, and aggravation in the long run. The majority of adult fleas on your pet can be killed quickly with initial treatment, but, unless you also treat your environment, the problem will recur as the other flea stages emerge into adulthood. Be sure to follow all instructions carefully. Combining insecticides or misusing these products can cause toxicities.
Please feel free to stop in the hospital for assistance in choosing the best flea products for your situation. It is helpful to know the square footage and layout of your home in deciding the size and number of products to use for the house. Also, be sure to let is know if you have already been treating your pet with any flea products.
Pet Products ***Please read product instructions carefully***
Collars: Fleas collars can help in prevention of a fleas problem, however, we do not advise the use of collars once a problem has already developed. They may do a good job around the pet’s head but protection on the hindquarters is questionable, especially with large dogs. Flea collars should NOT be used in combination with several of the other flea products.
Sprays: Aerosol and non-aerosol flea sprays have been old standbys. They generally need to be re-appled every 1-2 weeks. Residue build-up and odor have been undesirable effects of usage.
Powders: Powders contain the same type of active ingredients as many of the sprays. These need to be applied weekly and worked well into the hair coat to settle onto the skin. Application of the dust can be irritating to the respiratory tract and eyes of some pets.
Shampoos: Flea shampoos do a good job of killing adult fleas that are on the dog. Shampoos work well to clean the skin and remove flea dirt. They do not provide ongoing protection.
Dips: For severe flea infestations, dips are probably the most effective method of treating dogs and cats initially. After bathing, a dip solution is applied and worked into the hair coat. The animal is then allowed to dry without being rinsed off. Do not start using follow-up flea products until one week post-dipping.
Tablets: Program: is a monthly tablet given orally which prevents flea infestation by sterilizing the adult fleas. Fleas do need to bite the pet first in order for this product to work, therefore, this product is not recommended for pets who have allergies to flea bites. While this product prevents fleas from reproducing, the fleas will remain living and present upon the pet's body.
Spot-on: Frontline Top Spot: is a spot-on liquid applied monthly between the pet's shoulder blades to ward off both fleas and ticks. All adult fleas are killed within 48 hours of application. It is convenient, safe, and gentle enough to be used on dogs, cats, puppies, and kittens. It is the product of choice as fleas do not have to bite the pet for the product to work. It is toxic to fleas and insects but not to mammals.
Revolution: Revolution is a spot-on liquid applied once a month. This prevents and controls flea infestations by killing adult fleas and preventing flea eggs from hatching. In addition to flea control, it provides protection against heartworm disease. It is safe to use on puppies and kittens as young as 6 weeks. This is a good choice for a multi-use product.
***These are currently the best products recommended for flea control.***
FUN FLEA FACTS
In 30 days, 10 female fleas can produce 4000 new fleas. In turn, assuming half are females, that 4000 can produce 80,000 in 30 days.
Fleas can jump 300,000 times without stopping. They can jump 50 times their length vertically or horizontally, and with a take-off acceleration of 50 times that of the space shuttle after lift-off (140 g's).
There are more than 1000 species of fleas in the world with 238 species in North America.
Fleas, ranging in size from hardly visible to 1/3 inch long, have been transmitters of killer diseases such as bubonic plague (transmitted by the rat flea) and typhus.
An adult flea can live 2 years without feeding.